| Motorcycle Brake Pad Changing Guide - Put the Brakes On! |
The disc brake entered Japanese motorcycle construction at the end of the sixties, having been previously used solely for airplanes. The principle of this brake is as simple as it is effective: Two blocks arranged opposite each other are forced together by high pressure hydraulics against a rotating plate placed in the centre between them. The advantage over a drum brake is primarily the better ventilating and cooling of the system.
Both brake pad and brake disc are subject to wear, the degree of which depends on the driving and braking habits of the driver: Regular visual checks are therefore indispensable for driving safety. The friction layer of the pad frequently provides a coloured marker indicating the wear limit. But generally this is 2mm depth. Please check the depth of the friction layer also from the side and below: Excessive pad taper can indicate a faulty mounting and can lead to early damage of the brake disc!
Always change brake pads before long journeys abroad even when there is some wear left on them. 'Glazed' brake pads after several sharp emergency stops or due to age, also mean a change is required.
Safety note: Please always read the safety notices contained in this guide and on the product packaging. To remove/fit brake pads and to bleed/refill the hydraulics free of air requires technical know-how at professional level. If you are not totally convinced by your own technical abilities, GetGeared recommends that your brake pads are better exchanged by a competent mechanic!
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| Step By Step Guide - Step 1 - Brake Fluid Removal |
Start off by removing about half the brake fluid in the brake fluid master cylinder. This avoids brake fluid overflowing out of the cylinder when the pistons are reset for the new pads.
First stand the bike up such that the brake fluid master cylinder cover is level with the floor and cover all the painted and metallic surfaces around the cylinder and below, especially the tank. Brake fluid spills corrode paint work!
Now remove the cylinder lid and siphon off about half the brake fluid.
To siphon the brake fluid, GetGeared recommends: Fluid Siphon and Dispenser Bottle
To bleed the system, GetGeared recommends: Brake Bleeding Tool
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Siphon off half the brake fluid to avoid it spilling on the paint work.
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| Step By Step Guide - Step 2 - Unbolt Calliper & Piston Reset |
Undo the mounting bolts retaining the calliper on the forks and gently lift the whole assembly from the disc. If there is an excessive ridge at the side of the disc, this can be difficult and may indicate that new discs are required. You do not need to remove the hydraulic pipes to do this.
With the calliper off the next step is to prepare the pistons for the new pads. Before removing the old pads, compress the pistons back into their bores. You could do this with a wide screwdriver wedged between the old pads; But it is important for the life span of the calliper and to avoid excessive brake wear later that both sides of the pistons are reset in parallel motion and with equal pressure. As a consequence a specialised tool is recommended.
Using a specialised tool also ensures that when you have completed the tasks and refitted the new pads, there is less risk of the new pads being misaligned. While resetting the pistons, also watch the master cylinder fluid level, as that rises when the callipers are reset!
To reset callipers, GetGeared recommends: MOTO-DETAIL Motorcycle Calliper Reset Tool
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Undo the mounting bolts retaining the calliper on the forks
Compress the pistons back into their bores
 
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| Step By Step Guide - Step 3 - Remove The Worn Brake Pads |
The actual removal of the brake pads is usually quite simple.
In this example, the pads are kept in place with two pad retaining pins and an anti rattle clip. With the "cap screw" removed to reveal the pad retaining pins, these can be taken out (if necessary loosen with a firm tap using a suitable tool).
Caution: The anti rattle clip can easily jump out at this stage and vanish into a corner of the workshop; Make sure you make a mental note how the clip is positioned in relation to the pads so you can re-install it correctly. Sometimes there is an arrow on the anti rattle clip, and it should point up towards the front of the bike
After removal of the retaining pins the old pads can be taken out. Please note any anti-squeal plates that need to be refitted later; Their positioning has to be exactly the same at reinstallation for them to do their job!
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Take out retaining pins/retaining screw and make a note of the position of the anti rattle clip.
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| Step By Step Guide - Step 4 - Inspect And Clean The Calliper And Pistons |
Turn the calliper over now and inspect for any wetness around the rubber seals. If there is any moisture there, your calliper is most likely leaking and needs to be replaced.
Now, clean and dry the piston heads and surrounding area thoroughly. Make sure that no moisture remains trapped and that the dust collars are properly fitted.
Clean off the remainder of the calliper inside with a soft plastic or copper brush and brake cleaner. Avoid getting cleaner or brush onto the dust collars.
To clean your brakes, GetGeared recommends: PROCYCLE Brake Cleaner
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Clean out calliper with brake cleaner and a soft brush.
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| Step By Step Guide - Step 5 - Lube Backing Plates With Copper Paste |
Before fitting the new pads, lube the rear backing plate with copper paste as well as the retaining pins /retaining screw. The lube must not get onto the friction surface of the pad!
Place the pads with the friction surfaces facing each other into the calliper and secure in place with the anti rattle clip. Then fit the retaining pins/screw. At the end do not forget to reset the cap screw or other safety device that ensures that the retaining pins/screw remain in place while driving!
GetGeared recommends: PROCYCLE Copper Paste
Check over your work once more before refitting the calliper.
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Use copper paste to lube the back of the brake pads; use thinly.
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| Step By Step Guide - Step 6 - Refit And Secure The Calliper |
To replace the calliper over the disc, the new pads need to be pushed outwards as far as possible to create a wide enough gap. Now push the calliper over the disc edge and push the calliper towards its mounting bolt positions on the fork.
If this is difficult, it is possible that the pistons have shifted inwards and need to be reset again; If this is the case, protect the new pads friction surface with thin wood sheets and ensure again that both pistons are reset in parallel motion and with equal pressure.
Once the calliper is in position tighten the mounting bolts with the torque setting listed in your vehicle handbook.
To reset callipers, GetGeared recommends: MOTO-DETAIL Motorcycle Calliper Reset Tool
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Tighten the calliper mounting bolts to the torque setting set out in your vehicle handbook.
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| Step By Step Guide - Step 7 - Refill The Brake Fluid |
If you are a exchanging the brake pads on a single disc system, you are now nearly done! Refill the brake fluid in the brake master cylinder to the Max. setting and replace the lid. On a dual disc system you now need to repeat steps 1 to 6 on the second calliper.
Before the first test ride, 'pump' the pistons into their working position by depressing the brake lever several times. Ensure that you achieve a solid feel with a clear bite point. This is very important as otherwise the first braking manoeuvres would have no effect until the working position of the pistons is reached, i.e. You will not stop!
For the first 125 miles avoid sharp braking. Allow the pads to bed in first. Until bedded in the pads do not deliver their full friction and are more prone to glazing. Check if your discs are getting excessively hot, if there is a persistent squeal from the pads or if there is any other indication that the pads are not moving freely or were not reset in parallel. If so, reset the pistons once more as described in step 6. In most cases the problems are resolved.
GetGeared recommends: PROCYCLE Brake Fluid
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| Checklist Before You Get Started |
- Torque wrench
- Siphon canister
- Calliper reset tool
- Copper paste
- New pads
- Brake fluid to top up
- Torque setting for the calliper mounting bolts
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